Tradicional attires
The chapter on traditional costumes (underclothing and outer garments, footwear, accessories and headdress, warm garments, household equipment, etc.). consists of several subheadings of great interest. Firstly, what should be dealt with is the growing, extraction and later manipulation of vegetable and animal fibres (linen: grain separating, beating, crushing , fraying, softening, combing and spinning; wool: shearing, washing, combing and spinning; esparto grass and hemp: similar operations).
Secondly, testimonies about the spinning and weaving (spinning wheel and spindle; with drum, handling, soaking and drying, winding, loom for weaving...) are incorporated. Also interesting needlecrafts (crochet work, needlework, darning), embroidery, laces and all the needlework ( lacemaking, embroidery, sewing, mending...) associated with weave material.
Later on, especially graphic testimonies are indexed that inform us about the history of the costume with all its socicultural, ethnic and religious differences. Emphasis is put on the traditional dress: of men, women, shepherds (espadrilles, leather protections for the legs, leather bags, umbrellas, hats,etc); labour (agricultural, herdsmen, crasftsmen models...) and festive dress; traditional costumes..... In association is the study of footwear (leather, hemp, esparto grass...). To complete this general view on traditional dress, it is necessary to incorporate gaphic testimonies on personal adornment and accessories ( decorative, religious complements, hair accessories, jewels, outer accessories; hats, caps and spinster, widow, married women bonnets...; straw cape and gaiters; chasubles, shawls and sleeve holders; saddle bags, buttons, belts...).
Apart from the dress and its accessories, traditinal costumes is a section that includes dowry white linen: bed linen and complements; personal toiletry and towels, household linen, tableware, etc.; as well as ritual white linen: shroud, offering utensils, baptism or christening clothing...
Lastly, the garment in general requires cleaning and treatment. There are testimonies on the washing, ironing, bleaching, suphur rinsing... Similarly, there are others about the instruments and places for washing.
However, we do not only intend to make an inventory of all these testimonies but rather promote a symbolic and functional study of traditional costumes. In fact, the "anthropological look" that underlies the whole study of the Archive approaches equally into the symbolism of the colours, of the materials, pieces of clothing as into their functional and sociocultural differences.
Also, it is pertinent to value the relevant contexts for the oral patrimony which for example may be the weaving nights and production zones and the commercial routes for some of the very symbolic products as the espadrilles.
But, undoubtfully, what is of most interest to us is the vocabulary and lexis associated to the images on traditional costumes. So, field research must track down many terms from a wide range of sources: photogaphs (old ones, studio, those made by itinerant photographers, post cards, documentaries, artistic...); descriptions in literature and rural life paintings, engravings and lithography from different periods; travelling texts; official reports from political or civil governments and other political and administrative dispositions about clothing and dress, among others.
- Download PDf1 Graphic vocabulary on traditional costumes
- Download PDF2 Overview study on traditioanl costumes in Navarre and Lower Navarre
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